The arrival of ramp (allium tricoccum), a wild leek, is celebrated each spring with festivals and community ramp suppers in the high mountain regions of North Carolina, Tennessee, and both Virginias. These celebrations of a humble plant once foraged from the wild by poor families making do have become fund-raising feasts. And in the meantime, modern gourmet chefs and adventurous foodies are now discovering that the ramp is a good herb-and good for what ails you.